As you venture through Slovenia’s highest pass, the Julian Alps surround you in a stunning panorama. The drive is just 15 miles (24 km) long, but it has a dangerous twist: The steep, skinny, and twisting pass has 50 hairpin turns that guarantee a breathtaking drive in more than one way. However, you’ll find that the historical attractions, mountain lodges, and natural wonders along the way make Vršič Pass well worth the hair-raising ride.
Overview of Vršič Pass
Slovenia is a country nestled between Italy, Austria, Croatia, and Hungary and home to a little over two million residents. In the northwestern region, you’ll find Vršič Pass (pronounced ver-sheech). Here, the Julian Alps extend through the region into Italy. You can begin your drive in Kranjska Gora in the north or Bovec in the southwest. No matter which direction you drive it, the route is equally stunning.
Historical Origins
In the 19th century, Vršič Pass was merely a dirt trail used to transport timber. However, the area became strategically important in World War I. The Austro-Hungarians were fighting the Italians on the Isonzo Front, near the area. So, to provide Austro-Hungarian soldiers with supplies and support, Vršič Pass was transformed from a treacherous trail to a modern road.
Unfortunately, this transformation did not happen without tragedy. Instead of turning to their own soldiers for labor, the Austro-Hungarian army turned to prisoners of war to complete this transformation.
Thousands of Russian prisoners of war were forced to begin construction in the summer of 1915. The labor was tough, their treatment was brutal, and disease was rampant. Even before winter came, there were many deaths. Once the snow and freezing temperatures arrived, though, avalanches claimed the lives of hundreds more Russian prisoners. Their cobblestone construction remains on parts of the road today.
The Russian Chapel
In memory of these prisoners of war, a stretch of the road is known as the Ruska cesta (Russian Road). Additionally, there is a small Russian chapel at the historical site of the camp. It was originally built by the Russians to worship and is now dedicated to their memory. The Orthodox chapel was renovated in 2005 and again in 2010.
You’ll come to the Russian chapel not long after leaving Kranjska Gora. There’s a parking lot just before you reach it. A quick walk will bring you to the church, a quaint wooden building saturated with strength and sorrow. It is surrounded by tall trees and a quiet stream, making it an ideal spot for contemplation and an essential stop along the highway.
Natural Wonders
One of the first wonders you’ll find on the drive if you’re heading south is actually not so natural—a manufactured lake called Lake Jasna. If you’d like to stop there to take a few pictures and stretch your legs, there are walking paths around this beautiful—but artificial—lake.
Heathen Maiden (Ajdovska deklica) is another fun local wonder called a mimetolith, or rock formation that resembles a human or animal. When you look at Prisojnik mountain from the right angle, you can pick out a feature that looks like a woman’s face. Legends say that nymphs cursed a village maiden after hearing a prophesy that she would kill a powerful magical creature. Try to also look for the Prisojnik Window, also known as Prisank Window, a large natural rock window on the face of Prisojnik mountain.
The pass is encompassed by Triglav National Park, which has been a protected area for over a hundred years. Some travelers choose to summit one of Triglav’s many peaks from trails off of the pass. When you descend the Trenta valley, Šupca Viewpoint (Razgledišče Šupca) is a great place to stop and take in Triglav’s fantastic scenery.
The emerald-green Soča river is one of Slovenia’s most picture-perfect nature spots. You’ll be driving alongside it on your way to the town of Bovec, and you can stop to hike around or kayak on this crystalline river for a magical experience. If you think the turquoise water and limestone rock look familiar, it might be for a reason: A few scenes of The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian were filmed on the Soča river.
Restaurants
If you’re looking for a bite to eat, one of your first restaurant options as you’re driving south will be Koča na Gozdu, a mountain lodge that offers traditional cuisine á la carte. You’ll also pass Erjavčeva Koča, which is also offers traditional food items like soups, sausages, and schnitzel. Most of the restaurants in the pass are mountain lodges with similar menus.
Besides these few lodges, there aren’t many food options in the pass, so it’s not a bad idea to stock up on some local cheese and prosciutto before your drive. Once you get to Bovec or Kranjska Gora, you’ll find more restaurants and hotels to relax at after this test of your driving skills.
Safety Tips
Tip 1: Snow means “no go.” The Julian Alps receive heavy amounts of snowfall every winter, so don’t plan on visiting the pass in the winter months, as it is usually closed from early fall to late spring.
Tip 2: Know manual driving before you go. Many tourists will rent cars upon arrival in Slovenia so that they can experience these gorgeous drives. However, most European rental agencies carry cars with manual transmission systems, which may be unfamiliar to American drivers. If it is your first time driving manual, it is not recommended to drive Vršič Pass. You don’t want to risk stalling the engine, rolling backward, or wearing out the transmission.
Tip 3: Watch out for cyclists. Slovenia is a top destination for cyclists looking for challenging rides and great views, and the highway between Kranjska Gora and Bovec is no exception. When navigating the nerve-wracking hairpins, you’ll want to watch out for cyclists. To respectfully share the road with them, be mindful of your speed, especially around corners.
It’s Not the End of the Road
You will eventually reach the end of Vršič Pass, but don’t stop there. Keep discovering the magic of Slovenia, with its alpine landscapes and charming castles. No matter where you continue your travels, you can rest assured that your memories of Vršič Pass will stay with you long after your drive is finished.
—Kara Haack