boats

Hundreds of colorful dragon boats fill the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers in Phnom Penh. In many ways, it seems travelers come to Cambodia to see what is dead—the land is literally dotted with temple ruins and landmines. Siem Reap is most famous for its ancient temple ruins from the twelfth-century Khmer empire, including the iconic Angkor Wat. Thousands of people travel to Cambodia every year to see the intricate carvings of dancing Apsaras (nymphs), Khmer kings, and scenes from the Ramayana on ancient temple walls—scenes of power, wealth, and riches that have mystically disappeared from the land, leaving only ruins as their last testament. Many visitors also take time to visit the historical sites of the infamous Khmer Rouge regime. Killing fields, marked by pillars of human skulls; the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Pehn; and schools for child victims of landmines remind visitors of the destruction and crimes against humanity that once took place here. However, there is more to Cambodia than just its temples and brutal history. Though Cambodia still wears its battle scars, both ancient and modern, there are many reasons Cambodia is still thriving today. Its joy and survival as a nation are best demonstrated by its largest celebration every year—the Cambodian Water Festival, where both past and present are celebrated.Bon Om TukSome call the Khmer Water Festival the greatest celebration in Southeast Asia. In 2010, Bon Om Tuk, as it is called in the Khmer language, attracted over three million people from all over Cambodia and the world to join in the merriment. Even Buddhist monks, gracing the crowds in their saffron-colored robes, come to watch the boat races from a safe distance. Each October or November (depending on the arrival of the full moon) Phnom Penh and Siem Reap both host extraordinary boat races, carnivals, and ceremonies, marking the reversal of the Tonle Sap River from upstream to downstream. This natural phenomenon takes place as the current shifts at the end of the rainy season, and all the water that once flowed upstream into the swelling Tonle Sap Lake changes direction to flow back into the Mekong River. This annual flooding of the Mekong River provides vast quantities of freshwater fish, fertility to the land, and livelihood for many Cambodians. Thus, the water festival is a celebration of thanksgiving for the life and sustenance that the river provides.